Base Tube & Foregrip Control Collar
Pommel & Hindgrip Emitter


I've said it before, but I'll say it again. These measurements worked for me, but you need to measure and test fit your own parts as you build your saber to allow for slight differences. Also, some of the photos in this tutorial were taken during the construction of the prototype and contain slight variences from the final saber so be sure to read the instructions carefully.

Base Tube & Foregrip
Cutting and Drilling
Take your slipjoint tube and cut off a section of the non-flared end to a length of 7 1/16" . Now take your wooden dowel and cut a section to a length of 6 3/4" . It can really hurt the look of the emitter and pommel if the ends of the dowel aren't cut straight. You can usually get this cut done for you at the hardware store when you purchase the dowel for little or nothing, or you can pick up a miter box and handsaw combo for about ten dollars that will help you make straight cuts as well as angled ones. Okay, once the dowel is cut you need to drill a hole in the center of each end about 2" deep. One should be 1/4" and the other 1/8" and both about 2" deep. They will eventually accomodate the two woodscrews .

Take 14 polywashers and slide them on the 1 1/4" tube alternating the orientation of each polywasher except for the final one. That may sound confusing, but when you start placing the washers you'll see that ridged grip shape start forming . (this picture was from the prototype which had a shorter foregrip..that's why there aren't enough washers) The innermost washer will actually not be visible. Now take the section of wooden dowel and the two 15/16" o-rings . Place an o-ring about 1" from each end . Insert the dowel into to the tube and position it so that the end with the small hole is flush with the end of the tube that is opposite the polywashers . The o-rings should make this a secure fit. This will leave the other end of the dowel (with the large hole) recessed just over 1/4" from the edge of the tube . Drill a small hole just below the 14th polywasher to accomodate the small woodscrew . Screw it in to solidly fix the dowel into place within the tube, but make sure that the head does not stand higher than the polywashers .

Okay, it's time to turn that grip section black. We are going to actually put a thin rubber coating over the section using the Plastidip. If you like you can use paint on the grips instead, but Plastidip stands up so much better to handling, and it's really very, very easy. Take your can of Plastidip and read the instructions. When you are confortable with the stuff (you might want to practice a little) go ahead and dip those first 13 polywashers . The 14th poly washer will rest under the control collar and it will be a pain to get the collar over it with the Plastidip adding to its girth, but if you do end up coating it just let it dry and then cut and peel it off (the coating that is). Simple. Once your grip section is coated let it stand OVERNIGHT before working with it. Don't worry if it seems like you just lost all the detail of your grip, this stuff will reduce as it drys.

The Control Collar
Cutting & Drilling
Take your sink tailpiece and cut a 2 1/4" section . Now take some graphing paper (or at least lined) and tape it onto your tube section . Mark out a 1" square centered on your tube (this is where graphing paper helps) and mark each corner and drill a hole in each .

Take the base tube and foregrip assembly and slip on four more polywashers . These will support the control collar. Now slide on the cut and drilled tube section . Make sure that on the hindmost edge of the tube section the polywashers are recessed about 1/4". Using the existing holes as guides go ahead and drill through the base tube below each hole.

Okay, did you get the pop-riveter? If not you can use woodscrews instead, but I really prefer the look (and ease) of the rivets. Take your two beveled faucet washers . Now rivet them onto collar using a couple of the larger diameter rivets . Now take the two 20-pin sockets and flex those little pins until they fall off . Next, take the sockets and lay them in place, end to end over the other two holes on the collar. Mark or make note of where the holes are in relation to the sockets (if you used my measurements and use the same socket I did, the holes should be dead-center on each socket. You'll need to expand the slit in each socket slightly with a drill to accomodate the rivet that will be used to affix them . When that's done rivet them onto the collar .

Pommel and Hindgrip
Take a section of tube from your sump drain kit and cut a 1 1/2" length . Cut it so that troughs rather than ridges are on the ends of the section. If you're having problems getting a non-curved section of tubing, just apply some heat with a blow dryer and help it into the shape you want then let it cool. Now slide that sump tube section onto the base tube so that it's edge slips under the hind egde of the control collar .

Take your faucet handle and drill a 1/8" hole directly through to the core about 1/8"-1/4" from the lip of the handle . Drill an identical hole opposite the last one. Now, paint the handle and cap with a silver or chrome paint . You should consider coating the painted handle with a clear sealer once the paint has dried. Next, take the 2" woodscrew and attach the handle to the saber .

Belt Ring
Okay, time to get creative. Take your section of coat hanger and couple pairs of pliers and shape it into an approximation of a belt ring that will rest in those holes you drilled . Now coat your belt ring in Plastidip . Once the coating is dry remove the coating from the posts that will be inserted in the pommel . Now bend that ring into place and try not to scratch too much paint off in the process . Replace the cap and your pommel is done .

Emitter Body
Take the brase hose mender and disassemble it . You can discard the clamp and hose washer. Take the brass stem and two of the small grommets from the assortment pack . Insert a grommet into each end of the stem . This will help stabalize the lag screw that will come later. Now take the brass stem, the brass collar, the 1 1/16" o-ring , and the male hose mender . Place the o-ring onto the threads of the male mender and re-insert the stem into into the collar, and then screw the two menders together .

Emitter Head
Take the 3/8" flat washer and insert a small grommet(same as the two in the brass stem) into the opening . Now take the lag screw and insert it through the washer/grommet assembly . It should be a snug fit and you may have to "screw" it in rather that just shoving it through. Next, take the aerator and disassemble it, you'll probably have to cut off the ball joint. This will give you a lot of little parts . From these parts you'll need to keep the beveled clear washer, the clear main body, the o-ring, the screw cap, and the rubber washer set in the cap. These, along with the screw assembly, will make up the emitter head . Take the main body and paint it black . Then take the cap and paint the white detail on the the screen side black as well . Once the paint is dry assemble the emitter head starting with the main body, the beveled clear washer, the o-ring, and then the screw/washer assembly . The cap with the flat rubber washer will be added later.

Assembly and Attachment
Inside the base tube on the grip end you may need to remove the Plastidip that is on the emitter end of the dowel. When the end of the dowel is flat again take the large rubber grommet and place it in the recessed grip section . Now take the emitter head assembly and insert it into the emitter body . Again, you may need to screw this to avoid dislogding the grommets inside the brass stem. Take the 3/4" o-ring and place it onto the brass stem. Now screw the emitter assembely into the saber, using the small o-ring to cover any gap around the brass stem and the large grommet . When the assembly is secure screw on the cap with the flat rubber washer beneath it and you've got your emitter !

Well, that should be it. How did it come out? Be sure and send me an email if you have any problems or pictures.