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Preparation The Grip
Attachments The Pommel
The Emitter


Take the two polywashers and prepare them for painting. Use a sharp knife and some sandpaper to smooth out any burrs or flash. You may want to hit them with layer of primer, though roughing up the surface is usually all you need. Now paint them flat black . Most spray paints work well, though I do recommend something specifically designed for plastics such as model paint. I actually used standard model paint applied with a brush and found it worked very well. It will be a little while before you actually use these washers, but at least now they will be ready when you do need them. Give the paint plenty of time to dry, several days if you can.

The Grip
Cutting the main tube
Take your 12" tailpiece . Cut off the flared end so that the remaining tube is about 8.5" in length . You can use your rotary tool for this, or you can pick up a tube/pipe cutting tool at SEARS for about $20. It's well worth the price, just remember that when using it on thin walled pipes such as these, you'll need to insert a supporting pipe or dowel while you cut to prevent warping of the pipe you are cutting.

Grip openings
Well, let's go ahead and do the hardest step of the entire project (it's not really that hard). To cut the grip holes you will need a pattern. Take some paper, preferably graph paper and wrap it around the tube to determine how much paper it takes to go around the tube. If you are using graph paper with 1/4" squares, as I did, you'll find it'll take right at 19 squares to circumscribe the tube. Once you know the width your pattern will need to be, cut a piece of paper to that width(about 4 3/4") and a length of about 7". On this paper draw your patterns for the grip openings. They start about 1" from one end, be are 1" lengthwise, and about 2 1/4" in width so that they'll go about halfway around the tube. I spaced three of these openings about 3/4" apart in my pattern, but this is a great point to customize your saber by giving it a unique grip pattern. You should go ahead and mark the spot for the two activators on your pattern, placing them about 1" above the foremost grip and about and 1" apart . It is much easier to get the alignment correct now, on the same pattern than trying to do it later. If you'd like you can print and use my pattern to save yourself the trouble or maybe you'd like an alternate pattern , though this alternate pattern will require a slighlty longer main tube and grip insert. Wrap your pattern around the tube, lining up the lines if you are using graph or lined paper. Position it so that the hindmost grip is about 1" from the edge of the tube and tape it in place . Using your rotary tool, go over the grip outlines enough to score the pattern into the metal . Go ahead and drill out the two activator holes . These holes will eventually accomodate the fixture screws, so you may want to test fit them now. If you use one of the pre-made patterns I provided, you'll see that they also include a mark for the hole that will be used to attach the belt clip knob. While the pattern is in place you go ahead and drill this hole to accomodate one of the wood screws. Okay, tear off that pattern and go ahead and cut out those grip holes. Be sure to wear some eye protection! Use a sanding drum to smooth out the edges of your cuts and to round out the corners .

Grip insert
Take your dowel rod and cut a 5 1/2" section (it should be about and 1" longer than the overall length of your grip openings to give you about 1/2" extra on each end . Now take the split tubing and cut a length equal to the dowel section you just cut . Wrap the tubing around the dowel as much as possible and attach it with about six small wood screws . Be sure to place the screws so that they will hold the tubing firmly inplace, but where they will not show once the insert is in place in the main tube. Insert the assembled grip into the main tube. It should be a tight fit, but try not to scratch up the tubing too badly while doing this . We will secure it to the main tube later.

Take your two faucet washers . You want to create a concave indenture on the bottom (wider end) of these so that they will rest flush on the main tube. Use a sanding drum in the rotary tool to grind out the shape you need, testing it on some 1 1/2" tubing as you go . You can also wrap a section of tube with sandpaper (rough side out) and move the washer up and down that to fine tune the shape you need. Once you are happy with faucet washers, take your two fixture screws and insert them in to the washers . Attach these assemblies to the main tube using two hex nuts .

Clip Knob
Take the MVP clip knob and the flat rubber washer drill a small hole in the center of the clip knob to accomdate a small wood screw. Peel off the adhesive backing on the clip knob and adhere it to the rubber washer . Attach the completed assembly to the main tube(actually the dowel within) with a small wood screw .

Take your gas cap (be sure to use only high-octane fuel in you lightsaber). Remove the threads inside the gas cap with a sanding drum in the rotary tool . Test fit the gas cap on the end of a 1 1/2" tube as you go. Now take one of your painted polywashers and place it onto the main tube with the wide section toward the pommel end . Slide the gas cap onto the tube as far as it will go . If needed you can use some adhesive to attach the cap, though I prefer to just put a couple small pieces of duct tape on to the tube so that the cap will fit firmly. Your pommel should be done , though you may want to do something about that gas pump icon on the end at some point.

Cutting the Shroud
Okay, the shroud pictured in this step is not the one I ended up using (the one you see on the completed saber). I made several and picked the one I liked best. You might want to do the same. Cut a 1" to 2" section (depending on your preference) of 1 1/2" tube . Cut yourself a piece of paper to serve as you shroud pattern. Once you have the paper cut to the proper size, fold it in half and draw a half pattern on it. Cut along the pattern line so that you have a symetric pattern . Tape the pattern onto the tube section and cut the shroud .

Assembling the Emitter
Take your shower head and disassemble it . Take the main body of the shower head and a 1 1/4" black rubber slip joint washer . Put the rubber washer over the threads of the main shower head body . Now take the two O-rings and place them on top of the threaded section . Take the emitter shroud and work it over the O-rings . Now take take the other painted polywasher and slide it onto the main body tube so that the wide section is toward the emitter end . Take the emitter assembly and slide it onto the mainbody . You can use some adhesive such as epoxy, but due to the shape of the shower head body, you can really wedge it on tightly with no glue at all.

Well, that should be it. How did it come out? Be sure and send me an email if you have any problems.